How to Choose the Right Mesh Count for Speedball Flex Ink in Screen Printing?

Speedball Flex Ink is one of the best preferred ink for screen printing. You can use it on stretchy fabrics like athletic wear. Its water-based formula offers vibrant colors and flexibility without cracking.

However, picking the right mesh count is critical to achieving clean, smudge-free prints.

We will breaks down the ideal mesh count for Speedball Flex Ink, focusing on multi-layer prints like white, blue, and black on t-shirts.

What is Mesh Count in Screen Printing?

Mesh count refers to the number of threads per square inch in a screen. A lower mesh count, like 110, has larger holes, allowing more ink to pass through.

A higher mesh count, like 305, has smaller holes, restricting ink flow for finer details. The right mesh count balances ink deposit with image clarity, especially for water-based inks like Speedball Flex.

Speedball Flex Ink is designed for fabrics like cotton, polyester, and blends. It’s opaque and stretchable, making it ideal for athletic shirts. However, its creamy consistency requires careful mesh selection to avoid flooding or smudging, particularly when layering colors.

What are the Challenges with Speedball Flex Ink?

Printing with Speedball Flex Ink can be tricky, especially for multi-color designs. For example, layering white, blue, and black on heathered shirts often leads to bleeding or smudging.

This happens when too much ink passes through the screen, overwhelming the fabric or previous layers. A common issue is using a mesh count that’s too low, like 180, which allows excessive ink flow.

The goal is to deposit just enough ink for vibrant colors without flooding.

For athletic wear, the ink must also stretch with the fabric, which Speedball Flex does well. But without the right mesh, you risk blurry prints or ink buildup, especially on subsequent layers like blue over white or black over blue.

What Should Be The Recommended Mesh Count for Speedball Flex Ink?

For Speedball Flex Ink, a mesh count between 200 and 230 is ideal for most t-shirt printing projects. This range strikes a balance between ink flow and control, ensuring clean prints without smudging. Here’s why:

200 Mesh: This mesh count works well for detailed designs and water-based inks. It restricts ink flow enough to prevent flooding, making it suitable for layering colors. For white base layers, 200 mesh allows a solid foundation without excessive ink. Blue and black layers over white stay crisp with minimal bleeding.
230 Mesh: Slightly finer, 230 mesh is forgiving when printing over underbases like white. It’s great for fine details and multi-color prints, holding large halftone dots if needed. This mesh reduces the risk of smudging on blue and black layers, offering better control for two-stroke passes.

A 180 mesh, while usable, often lets too much ink through, causing bleeding, especially on heathered fabrics. Going higher, like 305, can work for intricate details but may clog with Speedball Flex Ink’s thicker consistency, leading to white spots or uneven prints.

How to Adjust Mesh for Multi-Layer Prints?

For a three-layer print (white, blue, black), consider these mesh count strategies:

White Base Layer: Use a 200 mesh screen. It lays down a solid, opaque base without flooding the fabric. Two strokes ensure even coverage, but apply firm, consistent pressure to avoid buildup. Let the white layer dry overnight before heat-setting to prevent undercuring.
Blue Layer: A 230 mesh screen works best over the white base. The finer mesh controls ink flow, reducing smudging. Two strokes provide vibrant color while keeping the print sharp. Ensure the white layer is fully dry to avoid ink mixing.
Black Layer: Stick with 230 mesh for the black top layer. It maintains detail and prevents bleeding over the blue. Two strokes give a bold finish. If fine text or logos are involved, test a 305 mesh, but monitor for clogging.

How to Clean Prints with Speedball Flex Ink?

To maximize success with Speedball Flex Ink, follow these practical tips:

Test Prints: Practice on a sacrificial shirt to dial in pressure and stroke count. Print designs in rows to save fabric. This helps you perfect each layer without wasting shirts.
Dry Time: Allow each layer to air dry overnight before adding the next. Rushing with heat guns or hair dryers can cause undercured ink, leading to cracking or poor adhesion.
Heat-Setting: Use a heat press at 350°F for 2 minutes or a household iron on the fabric’s setting. Always place parchment paper over the print to prevent ink from sticking to the heating element.
Screen Maintenance: Clean screens immediately after printing to avoid staining. Speedball Flex Ink can stain sinks or screens if left to dry. Wash screens outside if possible.

What are the common issues you may face?

Using a mesh count like 180 often leads to excessive ink flow, causing smudging in multi-layer prints. Switching to 200 or 230 mesh solves this by restricting ink deposit.

If you’re still getting bleed, check your squeegee pressure—too much force pushes extra ink through. Use a medium-hard squeegee (70-80 durometer) for better control.

Clogging is another issue with higher mesh counts like 305. If this happens, add a small amount of Speedball Fabric & Acrylic Screen Retarder Base to slow drying and improve ink flow. Keep a spray bottle of water nearby to mist screens during long print runs.